If you have decided to buy natural wood siding for your home, you will have to choose the species and grade for the material. Wood siding may be milled from cedar, pine, redwood, spruce, fir, and other trees. And boards are cut from different parts of the tree, with varying characteristics. How do you choose the right species and grade?

For starters, be aware that some species of trees are more expensive and/or more available than others, and higher grades are always more costly than lower grades. Your goal will be to choose a suitable grade and species without breaking the bank.

Species
Redwood and cedar heartwoods have a natural resistance to decay. (Heartwoods are the darker wood that’s cut from the center of the tree whereas sapwoods are lighter toned and cut nearer to the bark.) Considering the fact that decay is the biggest enemy of wood siding, this is a key characteristic.

But heartwoods are quite expensive and redwood is almost rare. So before you spend a fortune on redwood or cedar heartwood siding, you’ll want to determine the final look you want your home to have. If you want to be able to see the wood’s natural beauty, you’ll probably have to pay the big bucks because there will be no other way to achieve that look. But, if you’re going to paint the siding, you might as well opt for a more affordable species and a lower grade because wood preservatives, stains, and paint can add the protection the wood needs.

Other options include pine, fir, and spruce—all are available in various regions and are more economical choices than redwood or cedar. They are not rot-resistant, so they must be protected with stain or paint. All three do a good job of receiving finishes.

Another important consideration is availability. A species of wood siding that must come from a distance is likely to be expensive because of the cost of transportation.

Grades
Determined by the number of defects such as knots, grades can vary widely. The names used to identify grades depend on the species and the grading agency. For example, top grades may be called “Clear,” “A Grade,” “Number 1,” or any of several other names. The main way to be certain about what you’re getting is to take a look at the material at the lumberyard.

For siding, you don’t want material that is warped or that has bark defects (called “wane”) along the edges. Pitch pockets are also bad because they can bleed through the finish. Splits at board ends are another concern. With these, you can cut off the end of the board, but of course you don’t want to have to do a lot of this). If you intend to paint your siding, opt for a lower grade that has tight knots and be prepared to seal the knots before painting.

Moisture content is also important. Don’t buy “green” siding, because it has a higher moisture content than “kiln-dried” siding and may warp or twist when it dries. All siding should be parked at the site for a few days before installation so it can adjust to the local humidity.