It usually involves renting and using an electric jackhammer to break a hole in the concrete floor, digging a large hole and removing the dirt, punching a hole through the exterior basement wall for the drain pipe, and more. In some cases, it also requires doing electrical work to provide a GFCI-protected outlet for connecting the pump. Be ready for considerable labor if you decide to do this job yourself. If this looks like more than you want to attempt, hire a pre-screened local sump pump professional.

Replacing a sump pump, on the other hand, is a relatively manageable job for those who are handy at DIY work because the hole is already dug. Always be sure to disconnect the power to a sump pump before handling it. Never work on live electrical components when standing in water.

Buy the pump and liner (tank) before beginning construction. You will need the pump and its liner during the layout process. For more about how sump pumps work, see What Is a Sump System?  Before purchaseing a new sump pump, be sure to see the HomeTips Sump Pumps Buying Guide.  

First you will need to determine the location for your sump pump and the route for the discharge pipe. To do this, try to identify the possible location of any underground pipes or utilities so you can avoid them when digging. There is nothing worse than cutting a big hole in the concrete floor, digging deep, and then finding that there is a 4-inch cast-iron sewer pipe in the way.

Choose a location that is at the low-point of the basement floor so water will drain naturally to it. Ideally, this location will be a place where it’s easy to work, somewhat near an exterior wall where the discharge pipe can exit, and near an existing GFCI-protected electrical outlet. You may not be able to satisfy all of these variables, but each will decrease the work involved.

One more note about location: In most cases, you will want the pump's discharge pipe to go very directly from the pump out through a wall. If an existing pump has a discharge pipe that already penetrates the foundation wall, plan to use that portion of the pipe. Otherwise, It is much easier to plan for this pipe to exit through the floor rim joists above the foundation. Be aware that the pipe must carry the discharge at least 10 feet from the house.

Place the pump liner in position on the floor and outline it. Then draw a second line about 4 inches beyond that outline. Plan to dig to this outer diameter so the hole will be large enough to allow for a layer of gravel around the outside of the liner.

Rent an electric jackhammer and, while you are at it, get goggles, heavy gloves, a dust mask, and ear protectors to wear when you use it.  When you’re picking up equipment, also get a 5-gallon bucket with a handle to make carrying dirt and debris out of the basement an easier job. If the basement slab is reinforced with steel mesh, you may also need a metal grinder or heavy-duty wire cutters for cutting it.

Now for the real work. Wearing all of the recommended safety gear, use the jackhammer to cut along the outline and then to break up the concrete so you can remove it. Clear the debris from the area of the hole, and then start digging. Use the jackhammer to loosen the dirt and a shovel to scoop it out. Dig the hole about 12 inches deeper than the full height of the sump liner. Level the bottom of the hole.

Shovel a layer of coarse gravel into the hole. Put in just enough so that the rim of the sump liner is flush with the surface of the basement floor.

Follow any instructions on the sump pump or liner regarding installation and take special note of whether any additional holes will need to be drilled in the liner for drainage.

Why we like it: • Pump turns on if water rises in basement • Includes backup battery for when power goes out • Battery recharges automatically

Place the liner in the hole, its rim level with the floor, and then fill evenly around its perimeter with gravel, stopping about 6 inches shy of the floor. Mix concrete according to label directions (see more about concrete in the article, Mixing Your Own Concrete) and fill the remaining hole around the perimeter of the liner up to the floor level. Finish the surface smooth, using a trowel.  Allow the concrete to set up overnight and treat yourself to a much-deserved break.

Next, check the pump’s instructions for the size and type of pipes for the discharge plumbing and the proper connections. In most cases, 1 1/2-inch or 1 1/4-inch PVC is used, but the type and size can vary. Attach the discharge pipe to the pump. Then put the sump pump inside the liner and level it (in some cases, plastic shims are required for leveling). Be sure the pump’s float, designed to turn on and off the pump as the water level rises or falls, is unobstructed.

Without gluing the pieces together yet, use elbows to route the pipe as needed to exit through a rim joist and then beyond. You can use a combination of a hole saw mounted on a 1/2-inch power drill and a hammer and chisel to cut a round hole through the rim joist for the pipe to pass through. Once all piping is properly figured, use PVC cement to glue the pieces together. Use plumber's tape (flat metal "tape" with holes punched in it) and short screws to secure the pipe to framing members. Caulk around the pipe where it goes through the hole to seal the gap. Be sure the water will drain away from the house.