Outlining your eaves, windows, and shrubbery with decorative lights is a sure way to enliven your home for the holidays. But hanging outdoor lights can be a less than cheerful experience, particularly if you’re faced with a teetering ladder and tangles of light strings that don’t work. Here’s how to make the job go safely and as smooth as a warm eggnog.

When shopping for decorative holiday lights, you’ll find many types at home improvement centers, from conventional mini-lights and icicle lights to mesh-style light strings made for wrapping tree trunks. You can choose clear, white, or colored lights that stay lit, blink, or chase. The right style for your home depends on the look you want to create and your budget, as well as energy requirements for the lights, so be sure to take your time when shopping.

Lights designated “C-7” and the larger “C-9” have 5- or 10-watt bulbs similar to those used in conventional night lights. “Mini-lights,” as their name implies, utilize miniature bulbs; they are, by far, the most popular today because they are inexpensive and also cheap to power, thanks to their cool-burning 1.5- or 2.5-volt bulbs. The C-9s and C-7s become very hot and consume considerably more energy than the same number of mini-light bulbs.

On the other hand, C-9 and C-7 light sets are heavier-duty than mini-lights and more reliable. With mini-lights, if one bulb is broken, missing, or twisted, all or part of the remaining string won’t work (though a bulb that is simply burned out should not affect the rest of the string). This isn’t the case with the larger bulb sets, which continue to operate.

The most convenient light strings have a male plug at one end and a female receptacle at the other—you can plug them together from end to end, which makes them easier to route. In the case of mini-lights, short, 50-light strings are often a better bet than longer 100-, 150-, or 200-light strings because you can easily unplug and replace a defective string. Regardless of the type you choose, buy only lights that are UL-approved for outdoor use. And follow all of the manufacturer’s cautionary directions on the package.

1. Locate an electrical receptacle for the lights. Plan to run heavy-duty extension cords from a working 120-volt electrical outlet that is protected by a ground-fault-circuit interrupter (GFCI). Ideally, use a switch-controlled outlet or plug the lights into an automatic timer that will turn them on at dusk and off late at night. Both the receptacle’s circuit and the timer must be rated to handle the combined amperes of all light strings connected to it. Do not use an indoor timer outdoors.

2. Measure the light strings’ lengths. Using a long measuring tape (ideally 30 feet or longer), measure the length and height of your house. Measure the height and circumference of any bushes or trees you intend to light. Also measure around any doors or windows you plan to surround with lights. Add up all of these measurements to figure out the number of 50-foot light strings you will need.

3. Test the lights. Before you plug them in, visually inspect your light strings, looking for broken or missing bulbs and worn or defective wires. If you discover faulty wires, replace the string entirely. If bulbs are broken or missing, replace them. To extract a broken bulb, wear gloves and use long-nose pliers (pull mini-lights straight out; unscrew C-7 or C-9 bulbs counterclockwise). Once a light string is complete, plug it in and check for burned-out bulbs. Unplug the string, replace the faulty bulbs, and then re-test to be sure all the lights work. If the string doesn’t work at all, check it for a blown fuse, per the manufacturer’s directions. If the fuse has blown, replace it; if it blows again, replace the entire string.

4. Set up a stable ladder. If your home’s eaves are low, you may be able to use a stepladder; otherwise, plan to use an extension ladder. Place it firmly on flat ground and lean it against the eaves, extended well above the eaves and leaning at an angle that will be comfortable and safe to climb—neither too steep nor too flat. If you must lean it against a gutter, place a short piece of 2 by 4 inside the gutter to reinforce it.

5. Hang the lights along the eaves. Your objective is to hang lights as easily and safely as possible without marring your home’s trim or walls. For attaching lights along gutters or the roof, use plastic clips made for the job—these grip shingles or gutters and have a lower hook that holds a light strand or extension cord.

6. Attach lights to trim. For attaching lights to window trim and similar vertical surfaces, use tube light clips or nail-on plastic clips, available at home improvement centers. Space them about 12 inches apart or as needed. Do not use staples or nails to hang light strings—they can pierce or wear away the protective insulation, creating an electrical hazard.