Vegetables are generally very easy to start from seed. If you're starting plants indoors to get a head start on the growing season, begin with a seed-starting mix; check the seed package for directions. Keep them moist, and add heat if you're starting heat lovers.
Once the seedlings have their second set of true leaves, transplant them to individual pots and add weak fertilizer. When you're ready to plant outdoors, acclimate them to brighter sunshine by setting them outside for a few hours each day in a sheltered spot, gradually increasing their exposure (a process called "hardening off"). Most seeds can be transplanted, but some do best if sown directly in the ground.
The methods of setting out seedlings--whether you're transplanting home-started plants or nursery-bought seedlings--are the same. Dig a hole the same depth as and about 1 to 2 inches wider than the seedling's container. Separate the roots, and place the plant so the rootball is level with the soil. Firm up the soil around the plant and water gently but thoroughly.
If you're still apt to have frost, cover the tops of each plant with a cloche (a glass or plastic bottle set over the plant or a cardboard box with the bottom cut out). If the weather turns unusually warm, shade new plants during the hottest weather with a piece of board.
Some plants, such as peas, beans, and tomatoes, need support while growing; others, such as melons and cucumbers, can be trained to grow vertically on supports to save room and to keep them off the soil, which can cause rot. Commercially made vegetable supports are available, but you can use anything that's sturdy enough to support the plant, such as a wood frame and strings or wire set against a fence for lighter plants like peas and pole beans.
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