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How to Build an Interior Wall |
Do you need to build or relocate an interior wall? If the wall will be non-bearing (not a necessary part of your home's structure), the job is relatively easy. It does require basic DIY skills and carpentry tools.
Depending upon where the new wall will go and the structure of the walls, floor, and ceiling at that location, you may have to remove some surface materials so you can securely attach the new wall at its ends, top, and bottom. You will need to install nailing blocks between the wall studs or ceiling joists if the new wall will not connect directly to wall studs in the intersecting wall or be located directly underneath a ceiling joist.
Beneath the drywall, lath-and-plaster, or backerboard-and-tile surface of a typical wall lies a series of horizontal wall studs that stand between a horizontal top plate at the ceiling and base plate at the floor. In most cases, the studs and plates are made of 2 by 4s, but 2 by 6s are used if the wall will contain extensive plumbing, ductwork, or other mechanical equipment.
The Building Process
Start by marking on the ceiling the new wall's center points at each end. From those two marks, measure half the width of the new wall's top plate (1 3/4 inches for a 2 by 4) in one direction and make a second set of marks at each end. Snap a chalkline between those marks to indicate the position for one edge of the top plate.
 1.
Cut the bottom and top plates to length, and then lay them side-by-side on the floor with their ends exactly flush to mark them for the wall stud locations. Plan to put one stud at each end and to locate the inside edge of the first intermediate stud 15 1/4 inches from the end, then make a mark every 16 inches for the same edge of each stud. Use a pencil and a combination square to draw lines across the pair of plates for each stud location. If you wish, you can make a second line 1 1/2 inches from the first to indicate the other edge of each stud, as shown in the drawing, or you can just make an "X" on the side of the lines where the studs will go.
 2.
Find the locations of the joists in the ceiling, using a stud finder. (In this drawing, the surface has been removed for clarity.) Holding the top plate along the chalkline on the ceiling, nail through the ceiling surface and into each joist with two 3 1/2-inch nails. If the new wall does not run perpendicular to the joists, you'll need to install nailing blocks between the joists for attachment. To do this, you'll either need access to the framing from above or you will have to remove some of the surface material.
 3.
Mark the floor to establish the bottom plate's position, directly beneath the top plate. To find this exact location, hang a plumb bob from each end of the top plate and mark the floor. As you did at the ceiling, snap a chalk line between the marks at each end to use as a guide for the edge of the bottom plate. Fasten the plate to the floor with 3-inch nails staggered back and forth and spaced every 16 inches.
 4.
As shown in the drawing, use stud-framing clips to fasten each wall stud to the top and bottom plates. Stand each stud into position, aligned with its marks and flush with the edges of the bottom and top plates. Check plumb, using a carpenter's level, and nail the stud in place. (An alternative method for experienced carpenters is to toenail each stud to the plates with 2 1/2-inch nails.)
 5.
Where two walls intersect, double-up the wall studs, as shown in the drawing. When building a wall that turns a corner, utilize two full studs with blocks sandwiched between, as shown in the detail.
To cover the wall studs, see How to Fasten & Attach Drywall.
--DV
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