Washing Machine Troubleshooting & Repairs

Washing machine need repair? Troubleshoot and fix common problems with your clothes washer with this expert DIY advice, including step-by-step instructions.

Front-loading washer must be empty before you can open the door to work on it. Here, a technician is tightening a screw that had fallen out and was rattling in the drum.Bacho / Shutterstock.com

Front-loading washer must be empty before you can open the door to work on it. Be sure all screws and components are tight.

A washing machine is basically a big tub that repeatedly fills with water and then drains, spins to wring clothes dry, and has a device for stirring the contents up—either an agitator in the middle of a top-load machine or a rolling drum in a front-loading machine.

The four cycles that every washer performs are fill, wash, drain, and spin. Though these functions are pretty basic, a number of things can go wrong with them.

There are a number of problems that you can fix quite simply; some issues, however, are better left in the hands of an appliance repair person. Before working on a washing machine, be sure to unplug it.

Washing Machine Doesn’t Run

If the washer doesn’t operate or make any noise when set on any cycle, it may not be receiving electrical power.

If it stopped when it should have continued on to the next cycle, the machine’s overload protector may have tripped. In this case, take out some of the articles to reduce the load and let the protector reset itself. Then restart the machine.

The Anatomy of a Washing Machine©Don Vandervort, HomeTips

The Anatomy of a Washing Machine

Otherwise:

1Be sure the machine is plugged in and turned on. If necessary, check the receptacle it’s plugged into for power, using a working lamp, appliance, or voltage tester. Be sure the washer lid is closed completely.

2If the receptacle seems dead, check the circuit breaker or the fuse that serves it.

 

3Check the power cord. Unplug the washer and check its cord for a break or frayed area. If necessary, replace the cord.

 

4Open the lid and check the lid switch and the tab on the lid that it pushes against. Press and release the switch. If it doesn’t click when you do this, it’s probably broken. Remove the switch, test it, and replace it if needed.

5If the washer still doesn’t work, the controls may be faulty. Call an appliance repair person.

HomeTips Pro Tip: To prevent problems with your washing machine, follow good maintenance procedures. Use the right amount of detergent for your washer and your water hardness, make sure the machine is level, and don’t overload it.

Washing Machine Doesn’t Rinse Correctly

If residue remains on your clothes or in the washing machine following a cycle, the problem may have any of several causes. First, make sure you’re using the machine properly—putting the right amount of soap in the load, not overloading the machine, and so forth. Check your owner’s manual for this information. Just an overly bulky load can cause improper rinsing.

If these types of issues are not causing the problem, the chances are good that the rinse water is not getting into the drum or is not draining out properly.

1Check the supply valves. Make sure the water supply valves that serve the supply hoses are open all the way.

 

2Make sure the supply hoses are not kinked. 

 

3Check the drain hose to make sure the machine is draining fully. A blockage can cause dirty rinse water to back up and remain in the drum. When you run a load, watch the machine to make sure it empties completely after each wash and rinse cycle.

4Check to make sure the cold water supply hose isn’t blocked. Turn off the valve to the hose, and then disconnect it from the machine. Put the end into a bucket and turn the faucet back on. It should deliver a strong flow. If it doesn’t, the hose may be partially obstructed. To determine if it is, disconnect the end from the valve, screw it onto a hose bibb outdoors, and try again. If the flow is still constricted, either clear or replace the hose.

5If these measures don’t work, call a washing machine repair person.

Washing Machine Leaks

©HomeTips

Lever-type shutoff valves

Leaking water from a washing machine usually comes from hoses or connections. Be sure that water appearing to be a leak isn’t drain water from a backed-up standpipe. To prevent potential flood damage, which can occur if washing machine supply hoses burst, be sure to install “no-burst” stainless-steel mesh hoses and lever-type shutoff valves, as shown at right. With these, you can easily turn off the levers for both hot and cold water between wash days.

Lever-style washing machine shut-off valveMueller B&K

Lever-style washing machine shut-off valve

1Check the fittings where the hoses connect to the faucets and to the back of the washing machine. Also look for worn or leaky hoses. Tighten couplings or hose clamps if needed, or replace the hoses altogether. Be sure to turn the water off before removing the hoses, and then drain them into a bucket after disconnecting them.

2Determine whether the machine is oversudsing, which can cause it to overflow. Reduce suds by pouring in 1/2 cup white vinegar in 1 quart water. Then switch to either less detergent or to a low-sudsing variety.

3Check seals and bearings. The machine may have a faulty basket gasket or tub seal and bearing that must be replaced; in this case, call an appliance repair person.

Plastic tray protects the floor if the washing machine has a small leak.©Don Vandervort, HomeTips

Plastic tray, available at home improvement centers, protects the floor if the washing machine has a small leak.

Other Washing Machine Repairs

For troubleshooting and repairing specific problems with a washing machine, please see the following articles:

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Join the Conversation

  • rugmanivinod

    My washing machine IFB 5.5 SX was showing error just before the ‘rinse’ cycle starts and I had ignored it and pressed the start machine for continuing the operation. for 5-6 minutes it worked and then the main switch in the house got automatically switched off. Since the error was indicating cleaning the drainage hose and coin trap I cleaned the same while the machine was not in operation and when I made a quick wash of the machine without clothes, without showing any error message the power in the house had gone, I mean main switch got switched off. All along I was trying the service person to come and attend the complaint. Finally when he came he opened the machine and changed the control panel and did not heck the drainage hose in detail as it was very clean as by this time I had cleaned it 3-4 times. He operated the machine only for 15 minutes and there was no problem then and he went off. But when I put clothes and started washing after 30 minutes that is just before rinsing, the error message dPeR ie., for cleaning the drainage hose and coin trap appeared. I had cleaned drainage hose and coin trap 3-4 times already within 2-3 days and therefore I just switched off the machine and did not try to operate it again fearing the power will go. The service person although called for God alone knows when he will come. Meanwhile I will have to do something otherwise the clothes in the machine in soap water will start smelling. Can anybody help me to decide what I should do? The service persons will not come immediately they will take their own time and meanwhile I have to make panic calls at least 4-5 times to get him.

  • benefitor

    Have IFB fully automatic washing machine. Water keeps on coming into the drum without stopping. so the drum fills up above half of its level and the water keeps draining out. Is it problem with timer which does not move after it has filled up the water to the required level?

    • Mozammil Rehman

      Hey guy

      Your machine’s pressure sensor may be at fault here. There is a pipe behind the drum that travels upward toward a device attached to one of the back corners (which an electrical connection on the other end. This senses pressure in the drum and switches off the drum filling, try replacing the pressure sensor, it is relatively cheap fix.

      Cheers

  • Subash

    I am seeking help regarding the a problem described in the next para in my front load washer. The washer is about 6 year old. I am using the word ‘drum’ for referring to the washing drum which is composed of immovable outside portion and the inside portion both. The inside-rotating-portion of the drum is connected to a spoked sort of a ‘wheel’ at the back of the drum. A motor attached to the bottom of the drum. The motor is connected using a belt to ‘this wheel’. Also like all front loaders it has mounting springs at top (3 in number in this case) and shock absorbers at the bottom (2 in number in this case)).

    I want help in resolving a banging or clanking sound (sound is actually somewhat like extremely loud clicks and it seems that two metal pieces or a metal piece against a stone piece are hitting each other). Now, at low speeds (washing or tumbling action speeds) the inner drum rotates without any abnormality. This banging sound comes when the drum is spinning at higher speeds (the draining or spinning action speeds).

    This sound started appearing after I tinkered, as explained next, with the ‘wheel’ and the inner drum mounting over a bearing.

    The inner drum as “appears to me” to be ending in a shaft which is mounted inside a single bearing (in its inner hole), while the bearing itself is fixed inside a bracket screwed into the back of the whole drum. I think this is called the tub bearing.

    I started tinkering after I had heard grinding noises whenever the drum used to spin – the faster it spinned the louder was the grinding noise. Hearing the noise I thought, may be just simply greasing the ‘main bearing’ (the one mentioned above – which mounts the inner drum) could solve the grinding noise and also later that assumption turned to be correct.

    Upon disassembling the wheel from the inner drum during the greasing attempt, I noticed that the bearing was a sealed bearing type – I thought I should try to replace it instead of greasing and decided to try and remove the bearing. To disengage the bearing from the inner drum, I tried to hammer the inner drum shaft using a ‘tiny’ hammer that I felt was right to be used considering I did not know the internal mounting at all. The tiny hammer seemed not to do any effect and I gave up and instead tried to push grease past the seals of the bearing. The seal on my side of the bearing seemed not be obscuring the interior completely – even though it was a rubber seal, so some grease went in.

    But after using the machine again, the end result was that though the grease seemed to have gone past the seals as the grinding noise had gone a new trouble appeared – the banging or clanking sound at the higher speeds now appeared. In detail what happens now is whenever the drum starts picking up the speed to do the spinning work, there seems to be a loud banging or clanking noise coming out of the drum. Hearing this noise I stop the machine. For inspecting this problem I removed the top cover of the machine and started the operation. I watched the machine’s operation while running. I saw that the drum plays freely on the suspension springs when the speeds are slow (I cannot see the underneath shock absorber, since the machine needs to be turned upside down to see the shock absorbers, and I do not yet have any assistant to turn over the whole machine even when the machine is not running). But when the drum is speeded up, the play of the drum first smoothens out, but as the speeds keep rising at one point the loud banging or the clanking sound starts coming and it seems that either the inner drum is clanking inside or the outside drum is clanking against some shock absorber. I do not know if any of the above is possible or if some other thing is causing this high frequency noise – it clanks at about 1 click per second.

    Though the one improvement that happened of the girnding noise going away completely – but the starting of more troublesome clanking sound has made the machine useless.

    Any suggestions/help will be highly appreciated.

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