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In many of today’s homes, we’ve removed walls to create a sense of spaciousness. But we’ve also filled our kitchens with whiz-bang appliances and our family rooms with surround- sound home theaters. Noise has become a byproduct of our busy lives. It’s no wonder that we crave a little quiet. Noise pollution has become a problem.
Sure, noise pollution isn't like having lead in your paint or microbes in your water, but it’s not just an irritant. It can mess up our sleep, add to our stress, infringe on our privacy, and generally compromise our quality of life.
Fortunately, there are a number of soundproofing or noise-reducing initiatives you can take on to alleviate the problem. The most effective of these are best done during a building or remodeling project because they involve the way walls or other structural elements are built. Others are relatively easy fixes you can do in a weekend.
Try some or all of these techniques:
Wherever air can leak through walls and around doors and windows, noise can leak through, too. Use flexible acrylic latex or polyurethane caulk or foam sealant to seal the gaps around pipes, electrical boxes, heating registers or ducts, wires, or where any other objects penetrate walls or ceilings.
In new construction, never install switch and receptacle boxes and heating registers back-to-back in a wall.
If you’ve ever built a primitive “telephone” by stretching a string between two tin cans, you’ve learned that sound can travel along a solid object—such as a string—just as it travels through the air. When building, keep this principle in mind and choose flexible furnace ducts rather than rigid-metal ones.
Where possible, use resilient pads to separate pipes from framing members, or fill the holes where pipes pass through with expanding foam insulation. When plumbing faucets, provide air chambers to eliminate the water hammer that’s caused when you quickly shut off a faucet.
In new construction, insulate interior walls where you want to minimize the transfer of noise between rooms. Always pack insulation around pipes—especially plastic (ABS) waste and vent pipes, which are notorious for transmitting the rushing sound of water when a toilet is flushed. When practical, opt for cast-iron drainpipes in areas where this would be a problem.
When purchasing new appliances, opt for the quietest models, even though it will cost you a bit more. You might be amazed at the noise difference between conventional fans, dishwashers, and other typically noisy appliances and their newer counterparts.
If possible, isolate and enclose noisy equipment well away from sleeping areas. Dedicated equipment rooms with insulated walls and solid-core doors are a good idea. In fact, solid-core doors between all rooms can significantly reduce noise traveling through the house.
Use sound-absorbing materials on floors, walls, and ceilings. Insulation tiles can cut noise greatly, as can carpeting. Avoid rigid, hard surfaces such as tile, concrete, and hardwood flooring.
Achieving a home that is quiet can take a little work, but when you’re ready to relax in a quiet room and enjoy a good book, you’ll know it was well worth the effort. Silence is golden.
Sound-Absorbing Surfaces & Materials
Hard surfaces reflect sound waves; soft surfaces absorb them. Materials that help control sound within a room are familiar to most homeowners. If you want to minimize sound bouncing around a room, opt for “soft“ materials such as acoustic ceilings and padded carpeting rather than hardwood, tile, or laminates.
Companies such as Armstrong World Industries have a wide range of acoustic ceiling materials. Acoustic tiles and drop- ceiling systems offer excellent acoustical properties; people who think the conventional styles are a bit too institutional will like some of the newer styles available.
For example, Armstrong offers 2-by-2-foot panels that have a step-edged detail or look like embossed or molded plaster. “These are very good for blocking noise generated in the basement and keeping it from invading upstairs,” says a spokesperson for Armstrong's residential ceilings. “They will give your basement ceiling an STC of about 35 and even better performance if you install batt insulation between floor joists,” he adds.
With ceilings, as with the entire house, the most effective way to minimize noise is to combine a number of different sound-blocking and sound-reduction methods.
Sound Transmission Class (or STC)
Walls and ceilings are rated according to their sound-transfer performance. The key rating is called an “STC,” short for Sound Transmission Class. This rates the barrier’s ability to block or muffle voices and similar sounds; the higher the number, the more effectively the barrier buffers sound.
A less frequently used rating, the “IIC” (Impact Insulation Class), rates a wall or floor’s transference of impact noises, such as bumps and knocks. An IIC rating of 50 or higher is considered acceptable.
For residential partition walls, recommended STCs depend on the particular type of room: For bedrooms, an STC of 40 is considered good, 45–55 is very good, and above 55 is excellent. Living rooms should be a couple of points higher, and bathrooms and kitchens should be up to 5 points higher. Keep in mind that conventionally built partition walls have poor STC ratings of 15–35, so consult with your contractor if you are remodeling or planning new construction.
