Does your toilet rock, or does water pool around the toilet’s base? Does the bathroom floor under the toilet feel soft, or are water spots appearing on the ceiling located directly it? All of these are signs that your toilet flange (also called a “closet flange”) is broken or deteriorating. In this article, we’ll show you how to repair or replace the toilet flange.
A toilet flange is a pipe fitting that connects a toilet to your home’s drainage system and mounts the toilet securely to the bathroom floor. If the toilet flange is broken or its attachment to the floor is loose, it will allow the toilet to move. Movement will usually break the wax seal (located between the toilet and the flange) that keeps water from leaking into the floor when the toilet is flushed—the result is that water pools at the toilet’s base or leaks through into the floor (and the ceiling below if the toilet is on an upper floor of a multi-story house). Of course, that leaking can cause serious water damage—that’s why a damaged toilet flange should be repaired or replaced as soon as possible.
In most cases, this can be a DIY home improvement for homeowners who have an adjustable wrench and a putty knife—just follow the step-by-step instructions below.
1. Turn off the water supply to the toilet
Turn off the water supply to the toilet by turning the shut-off valve (called a “stop valve”) located behind the toilet clockwise. If a shut-off valve is not present, you will need to find another shutoff valve located in the basement or crawl space area of the home, or shut off the water supply to the entire house. See How to Shut Off Water to a Toilet.
After turning off the water supply, drain the toilet by holding down the handle until the water fully flushes out. If there is about a half-inch of water left in the toilet, you can use a sponge to get that remaining water out.
2. Remove the toilet
Once all the water is drained, it’s time to remove the toilet. Be sure to place a protective covering such as a tarp on the bathroom floor or bathtub, depending on where you will be placing the toilet while repairing or replacing the toilet flange.
Remove the plastic toilet caps that hide the nuts securing the toilet by inserting a flat head screwdriver under the edge of each cap and gently prying upwards. Be careful not to apply too much pressure on the porcelain, which can chip or crack. Removing each plastic cap will reveal a nut and washer.
Remove the nut and the washer from both bolts at the toilet base, turning it counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench. If the bolt spins as you turn the nut, grasp the bolt with a separate pair of pliers while turning the nut. Store the nuts where you can find them to reattach the toilet after repairs are done.
If your toilet is caulked to the finished floor, score the caulking all the way around the toilet base with a utility knife running, the blade between the base of the toilet and the floor. Grab the toilet under the sides of the bowl and rock it gently back and forth to break the old wax seal. Then lift the toilet off the floor and set it down on the tarp or other protective covering.
3. Scrape off the old wax seal
Remove the old wax seal from the old toilet flange, the bottom of the toilet, and the finished floor, using a disposable putty knife. It should work great to scrape off the old wax seal.
4. Check the old toilet flange
Determine the type of flange you have and whether it needs to be repaired or replaced. Toilet flanges may be made from plastics, such as PVC or ABS, cast iron, copper, or stainless steel, depending on the material of the drain plumbing pipe (“closet bend”). A PVC pipe connection requires a PVC toilet flange; a cast-iron connection takes a cast-iron flange, and so forth. Some older homes may still have a lead closet bend in place—if this is the case with yours, call a plumber for repair or replacement because special equipment and techniques are needed.
If the existing flange has rust or cracks, pick up replacement a new stainless steel or metal one at your local hardware store. Any other broken, cracked, or worn-out toilet flange will likely be easier to repair using a repair ring (also available at a local hardware store), rather than completely replacing it. This ring makes repairs easy because it can be installed above the broken flange with four screws and silicone sealant. No solvent cementing or special tools are required, making it ideal for DIY homeowners.
Repair rings can also be used on cast iron flanges, but inspect the toilet flange for cracks or decay. If the drain section of the flange is damaged or so rusted out that it can’t hold the bolts that secure the toilet, replace the entire flange.
Again available for purchase at a local hardware store, a PVC or ABS replacement closet repair flange inserts into the vertical drain pipe after the old flange is removed. The new flange is sealed by tightening three stainless steel bolts. Tightening these (gradually, in even rotation) compresses the gasket between the outside of the flange tailpiece and inside of the cast iron drain.
Proper flange height is key to preventing leaks at the toilet’s base. A best practice is to install the bottom of the toilet flange on top of the finished floor, and to screw it into the subfloor. If you install the toilet flange flush with (or even below) the finished floor, leaks may form because the flange won’t be at the correct height to create a proper seal between the flange and the bottom of the toilet.
5. Repair (or replace) the existing flange
Follow these steps to repair your toilet flange using a toilet flange repair ring:
Remove broken or corroded sections of the flange. Then apply a liberal amount of 100%-silicone sealant to the top of the existing flange.
- Insert new bolts into any existing, sound ring slots. Be sure the bolts are centered with the toilet flange opening and parallel with the wall behind the toilet tank.
- Press the repair ring down into the desired location for correct bolt alignment. Then secure the repair ring to the subfloor using appropriate screws and anchors.
- Finally, install the second bolt and secure both with washers.
- Once the repair ring has been secured to the subfloor — and not before— wipe off any excess silicone and allow time to cure.
Follow these steps when replacing an existing flange:
Remove the existing toilet flange by unscrewing it from the floor. Take it to the hardware store to make sure you buy the right size and material. Depending on the drain pipe material and installation of the original flange, some reworking of the sanitary line may be necessary.
Dry-fit (no primer or cement yet) the replacement flange into the pipe to check for interference.
Apply approved primer to the flange and the drainpipe. Be sure to follow approved primer application methods.
Apply cement to the flange and drain pipe. Again, be sure to follow approved cement application methods.
Push the flange down onto the pipe until it sets flush with or on top of the finished floor.
Secure the flange in place using approved screws and possibly anchors for your application. Screws should pass through the finished floor and be secured into the subfloor.
Find the center of the flange, and then install and tighten the bolts.
Note: Always read manufacturer instructions and recommendations on products to ensure best practices for safe and effective use.
6. Replace the wax seal
Note: Always read manufacturer instructions and recommendations on products to ensure best practices for safe and effective use.
Put a wax seal on the flange before putting the toilet back on. Once the flange is repaired or replaced, you are ready to put in a new wax seal.
- Dry fit the toilet to make sure the floor is level. (If it is not level, shim appropriately.)
- Remove the toilet and leave the shims in place, excess material can be cut off later.
- Place a new wax ring seal on top of the repair ring or flange. Make sure it is centered.
- Set the toilet using a side-to-side and twisting motion, not a rocking motion. That’s because once you compress one of the sides with the wax seal, it will stay there. This can lead to leak paths and the same problems you were most likely experiencing with the broken flange in the first place.
Step 7: Reinstall the toilet
- As mentioned above, do not rock the toilet when you place it on the new wax seal. Use a slight side-to-side twisting motion until the toilet bowl is resting on the bathroom floor. Make sure you hold the toilet as level as possible when placing it onto the new wax seal. The toilet tank should also be set parallel to the wall behind it.
- Once the toilet is in a good position, install washers and nuts in their original order and location. Tighten nuts while alternating from side to side until the toilet bowl is seated firmly and evenly on the floor. Be careful not to overt-tighten the bolts, or you could crack the toilet bowl.
- Finally, reconnect your water supply. You can now fill the toilet with water to see if your hard work has paid off.
- Give the toilet a few flushes to ensure nothing major is happening with water leakage.
- Once you have confirmed that your wax seal as created a water / air tight seal, caulk around the base of the toilet to eliminate bacteria growth under the bowl.
- For more, see Toilet Repair and Troubleshooting Guide.
