Buying and Maintaining Sump Pumps and
Basement Sump Pump Systems

Do you have a basement that, during a heavy rain, looks more like a swimming pool? Basement flooding is a common problem, particularly in houses situated on flat terrain where rain and snow melt have little chance for runoff. When the ground becomes saturated, ground water pressure builds, forcing water towards any path of little resistance. If the water finds cracks and fissures in your foundation walls or floors, it easily seeps in to fill the "pool"--your basement.

The answer to this problem is a sump pump system. Sump pumps have been keeping basement laundry areas, storage rooms and recreation rooms pond-free in many parts of the country for years. They were first used in the New England and Mid-Atlantic states and Great Lakes regions but as cities have grown, so have water-runoff problems. Now sump pumps are common wherever basement flooding occurs. In fact, many communities require a basement sump pump in all new homes.

Sump pump buying options
You can buy a new sump pump through do-it-yourself retailers, plumbing wholesalers or waterproofing contractors. The prices range from about $60 to $500 or more, depending upon quality and features.

First decide between a pedestal and submersible pump. A submersible is out of sight and earshot, an important advantage if the basement is used as a primary living area. It's also much safer if there are children in the house.

But pedestal pumps are less expensive and last longer. Because submersibles sit in water a good deal of the time, they have a life span of from 5 to 15 years. Pedestals, on the other hand, may continue to operate for as long as 25 or 30 years. (Because a pump's life is closely related to the conditions and frequency of its use, most manufacturers offer limited 1-year warranties.) Pedestal pumps are also much easier to repair.

Automatic switches come in several types, including floats, diaphragms and mercury switches. It doesn't really matter which type you choose--but be sure to choose one of them. By the precepts of Murphy's Law, if you put in a pump with a manual control, you won't be home to turn it on the next time your basement begins to flood. An automatic switch can protect the pump, too. Most pumps burn out if they run "dry" for too long. An automatic switch prevents this from happening.

Price is directly connected to a unit's strength. Almost without exception, the least expensive models are also the weakest. A sump pump is measured by horsepower--pumps range from 1/6 to 1/2 HP.

But more important is the number of gallons per minute (GPM) or gallons per hour (GPH) a pump will move. This capacity is a factor of both the pump's efficiency and the "head" or "lift"--that is, the vertical distance from the bottom of the sump to the highest point of discharge. A pump may advertise "2400 GPH" but this may be measured at a 1-foot head. At a 5-foot head, that figure might drop to 2100 GPH and at 10-feet, 1800 GPH. Also note whether the pump is strong enough to pass small solids, such as leaves and twigs.

Materials that make up a pump also affect price. Look for parts and housings that won't corrode--cast bronze, alloy, stainless steel and epoxy-coated cast iron housings are favorable; avoid sheet metal. Polypropylene and related plastics are used in all grades of pumps.

Pay attention to the power cord's length, too. They come with 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25-foot-long power cords. Extension cords shouldn't be used with sump pumps.

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Sump Pump Resources

Note: some of the following info may have changed.

Barnes Pumps, Inc.
1485 Lexington Ave.
Mansfield, OH 44907
(419) 774-1511

F.E. Myers Co.
1101 Myers Parkway
Ashland, OH 44805
(419) 289-1144

Franklin Research
4007-09 Linden St.
Oakland, CA 94608
(510) 655-1100

Goulds Pumps, Inc.
240 Fall St.
Seneca Falls, NY
(315) 568-2811

Little Giant Pump Co.
3810 North Tulsa
Oklahoma City, OK 73112
(405)

Zoeller Company
3280 Old Millers Lane
P.O. Box 16347
Louisville, KY 40216
(502) 778-2731

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Photo courtesy of Hydromatic

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