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When it comes to water supply lines, solid copper pipe is still state of the art in many locales. Cutting and joining solid copper pipe may seem like it would be difficult, but you can get the hang of it after less than an hour of practice.
Cutting A tubing cutter is an inexpensive tool that quickly and accurately cuts copper pipe. In a pinch you can cut with a hacksaw, but you will run the risk of deforming the pipe end (making it an oval rather than a circle), which will make it difficult to join. Use a standard-size tubing cutter for most of your cutting. If you need to cut in a tight spot, use a small tubing cutter.
Measure and mark the pipe with a pencil. Unscrew the cutter to open it wide enough so you can slip it over the pipe, Tighten it until the cutting wheel starts to bite into the cut line. Make sure the two wheels at the top of the cutter are snug against the pipe so it will cut a straight line when you spin it. Spin the cutter a full revolution and then tighten the cutter some more. Spin, tighten, and repeat until the pipe is cut.
If you must use a hacksaw, be sure the blade is sharp. Clamp the pipe gently—just enough to hold it in place—several inches away from the end to keep from deforming the end. Use a miter box or other guide to help you make a straight cut. Once the cut is finished, use a small file or a pipe reamer to scrape away any burrs on the inside of the pipe.
“Sweating” copper pipe
The most common way to join copper pipe to fittings is to “sweat,” or solder, the joints. Purchase a roll of solder and a little tin of flux made for use on copper pipe.
Join together four or more pipe pieces and fittings in a dry run and then disassemble them. Use plumber’s sandpaper, regular sandpaper, or a special plumber’s wire brush to clean all the surfaces to be joined, including the outsides of pipe ends and the insides of fittings.
Next, use the brush to spread a fairly generous amount of flux onto the pipe ends and fitting insides. Reassemble the pieces.
Partially unroll the solder so you have a straight section about 3 inches long to work with. Ignite a propane torch and adjust the flame so the inner blue flame is 2–3 inches long. Hold the flame against the joint and move it around so you heat both the pipe and the fitting all the way around.
Aim the flame away from the joint and touch the solder to the joint; do not aim the flame at the solder. If the joint has been heated sufficiently, the solder will immediately melt and suck into the joint. If not, reheat the joint for a while and try again.
Once the solder has sucked into the joint, wipe the joint gently of any excess solder.
Other ways to join copper If you are joining flexible copper tubing to a fitting or valve, use a compression fitting. Slip the nut and the ferrule (ring) onto the tubing, poke the tubing into the fitting or valve, slide the ferrule tight against the threads, slide the nut over, and tighten the nut.
Some pros now use “no-sweat” tools—expensive machines that join pipes and fittings mechanically—but they are out of reach for most homeowners.
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Cutting
Join together four or more pipe pieces and fittings in a dry run and then disassemble them. Use plumber’s sandpaper, regular sandpaper, or a special plumber’s wire brush to clean all the surfaces to be joined, including the outsides of pipe ends and the insides of fittings.