Gutters can easily become clogged with leaves and other debris; inspect and clear them in both spring and autumn. You also may have to loosen dirt that has blown into the gutters and scrub them with a stiff brush. Flushing gutters with a stream of water from a hose will clear material that has become lodged in the downspouts.

You can also install mesh screens or a leaf-catching system. If you buy one of these systems, be sure to get a type that can be easily removed when it’s time to clean the gutters.

The slope of gutters may need to be adjusted from time to time. Run water through them, and, if they drain slowly, reposition them so that they slope toward the downspouts at a rate of 1/4 inch for every 10 feet.

Be sure your downspouts expel water well away from your house. If necessary, add downspout extenders that run horizontally and carry the water away. Also consider concrete or plastic splashblocks that are slightly sloped and extend away from the house at least 4 feet.

If your climate delivers abundant rainfall, you may want to have your downspouts run into a dry well. The well should be a hole 2 to 4 feet wide and 3 feet deep or a 55-gallon drum, with both ends removed and filled with rocks, that you’ve buried and punctured with holes. Underground drainage pipes should slope to the dry well, which will effectively keep water away from the house’s foundation. Check local building codes before installing.

Also check downspouts for rust, flaking, or peeling paint, and leaks, and make sure they are affixed tightly against the fascia boards. Check the fascia boards themselves for dry rot or other damage, and, if need be, replace them with lumber treated with wood preservative that is finished to match the other boards.