How to Prepare for Installing Hardwood Floors
How to prepare for installing new solid or engineered wood flooring

By +Don Vandervort, HomeTips

Because installing wood flooring is usually a major, expensive home improvement, it pays to ensure a quality, durable result. The key is proper preparation.
solid hardwood flooring
Make sure that the subfloor will provide a good, solid, flat base and that the use and conditions of the room won’t have a negative impact on the flooring. Too much foot traffic on a new floor or excessive temperature or humidity swings can diminish the quality of—and sometimes even ruin—wood flooring. Proper preparation techniques depend upon the type of flooring you’re installing and the conditions of the base that will be beneath it.

Engineered vs. Solid Wood Flooring

As discussed in How to Buy Wood Flooring, solid and engineered wood floors differ significantly. Because solid wood flooring is milled from lumber, it has a tendency to warp, twist, expand, and contract with changes in moisture and temperature. Because engineered wood flooring is made from layers of wood sandwiched and bonded together, it is more stable and resistant to changes caused by extreme temperatures and humidity.

Because of its vulnerability to moisture, solid wood flooring should only be installed on above-grade floors (the soil’s grade level around the house should be no more than 3 inches above the floor level). Engineered wood flooring may be installed above or below grade.

Raised Subfloor Preparation

Most wood flooring goes on a typical raised, wood-framed subfloor that is surfaced with plywood or OSB (oriented-strand board) subflooring panels. The subfloor must be clean, dry, flat, structurally sound, squeak-free, and clear of any surface bumps or fasteners. Use a long, straight board and a carpenter’s level to check for any dips or rises. Sand down bumps and fill dips with leveling compound. Reseat any raised fasteners and screw down any squeaky spots using 1 1/2-inch screws.

To prevent ground moisture humidity from rising up into the room and negatively affecting the flooring, the crawlspace beneath a raised floor should be at least 18 inches high and properly vented with 1.5 square feet of vent area for every 100 square feet of crawlspace. Cover the entire ground area with 6-mil black polyethylene, overlapping the sheets and then taping them. Extend the material 6 inches up the concrete foundation walls and tape it in place.

Concrete Slab Subfloor Preparation

Wood flooring can be installed on an above-grade concrete slab if the slab is at least 60 days old, dry, and has been professionally moisture tested (this is beyond the skills of most do-it-yourselfers). The slab must be flat, without high or low spots. And it must have a trowel finish that is clean. (For complete information on preparation and installation, see Installing Solid-Wood Flooring on a Concrete Slab.)

Before the Flooring Is Delivered

The conditions of your home must be ready for wood flooring before the material is delivered. In fact, wood flooring is typically one of the last installations during a remodel. To avoid physical damage to the surface, be sure it goes in after all construction and the installation of any fixtures and appliances that will not sit on top of it.

Pay Attention to Heat and Humidity

Unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise, wood flooring must be allowed to adjust to the house’s normal humidity level before installation to prevent expansion and contraction that can spoil the final job. This means any packaging should be removed and the wood should be stacked for several days in the room where it will be installed. Do not store it in the garage or an exterior patio.

Anything that might artificially alter the normal humidity level of the room where the flooring will be installed must be controlled. For example, the house must be fully enclosed and the heating and/or air-conditioning system should be operating at normal occupancy levels. If this isn’t possible, you’ll need to set up temporary heating and dehumidification that matches the conditions of the final space. All plastering, concrete work, drywall, texturing, and painting of primer coats should be finished and dry to avoid introducing excessive moisture into the air.
Copyright © 1997-2012, Don Vandervort, HomeTips, LLC. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited.




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